A Guide to Puglia: Wine, Food, and Family

Image: Masseria Pezze d'Arena, Carvinea Vineyards, Puglia.

The beauty and charm of Puglia is that it doesn’t try too hard. It’s raw in the best way: good food, great wine, beautiful scenery, historic culture, and the epitome of "the slow life." It’s not overly curated, and that’s part of the appeal.

Wine in Puglia: A Region with Deep Roots

Wine has been made in Puglia for thousands of years. Thanks to its warm Mediterranean climate, coastal breezes, and fertile soils, the region has long been ideal for grape growing. Historically, much of the wine produced here was shipped north in bulk to add body and colour to lighter wines from other parts of Italy and Europe. But that’s changed.

Today, Puglia is redefining its place in the world of wine.

A growing number of producers are shifting toward small-scale, quality-focused production rooted in native grape varieties. The goal isn’t to imitate other regions, it’s to express Puglia’s identity through wines that are honest, balanced, and full of character.

You’ll find bold reds, fresh rosés, and increasingly, vibrant, mineral-driven whites, all made with care and intention.

The Land and Climate: Sun, Soil, and Sea

Puglia stretches along the Adriatic and Ionian seas, forming the heel of Italy’s boot. The region benefits from long, sunny summers and constant coastal winds that keep vineyards dry and disease-resistant, ideal conditions for sustainable, low-intervention farming.

The soil varies widely:

Limestone and clay in-land give depth and structure to reds.
Sandy and marine soils near the coast offer freshness and salinity, especially in whites and rosés.
Iron-rich terra rossa (red earth) adds a unique mineral richness, especially in the central and southern parts of the region.

This natural diversity allows for a wide range of expressions, making Puglia one of Italy’s most exciting and dynamic wine regions.

Grapes You’ll Only Find Here

What makes Puglian wine truly distinct is its wealth of native grape varieties, many of which are rarely seen outside the region and are deeply tied to local tradition.

Image: Carvinea Vineyards, Puglia.

Ottavianello: soft, aromatic, and nearly forgotten until recently. Floral with bright acidity and gentle tannins.
Negroamaro: Earthy and structured, with dark fruit, herbs, and a savoury, slightly bitter finish.
Primitivo: Rich and full-bodied, but balanced by freshness. Think ripe red fruit, fig, and spice.
Susmaniello: A rediscovered red with bold colour and juicy energy; once used for blending, now prized on its own.
Fiano, Verdeca and Bianco d'Alessano: Native whites that bring citrus, florality, and crisp minerality. Often surprising in both texture and age-worthiness.
Bombino Nero and Aglianico: Commonly used for rosés, bringing bright berry fruit and savoury complexity.

After years of being overlooked or blended, these native varietals are now being celebrated for their depth, character, and connection to place.

Carvinea: Where Tradition Meets Intention

One of the producers helping lead this shift is my family’s winery, Carvinea.

Carvinea began with my Nonno, Beppe Di Maria. Though he spent much of his life in the car business, he always had a deep passion for wine. In 2000, he bought Masseria Pezze d’Arena, a 16th-century farmhouse and began restoring it with care. Alongside the masseria, he planted vineyards with native grape varietals, setting the foundation for what would become Carvinea.

Image: Carvinea Vineyards, Puglia.

By 2007, he was making his first wines: thoughtful, low-intervention, and focused on expressing the character of the land. Today, at 86, my Nonno still goes to work every day. His commitment is unchanged: low-intervention farming, honest winemaking, and a belief that the best wines are those that reflect where they come from. His approach continues to shape Carvinea to this day.

One of the wines Carvinea is most proud of - and one that represents the future of Pugliese wine - is Ottavianello.

For decades, this native varietal flew under the radar. It was used mostly for blending, quietly adding softness and aroma to other, more dominant grapes. But my Nonno saw something else. He believed Ottavianello had the structure and character to stand on its own, if given the right care and attention.

In 2013, he took a risk. He converted three hectares of vineyard to Ottavianello, at a time when few others were even talking about it. It wasn’t a market-driven decision. It was about curiosity, belief, and a desire to revive something deeply tied to our land.

Image: Carvinea's Ottavianello Wine Experience, Puglia.

Today, Ottavianello has become a cornerstone of Carvinea’s identity. We produce it in three distinct styles, each revealing a different side of the grape:

Otto: A bright, aromatic red with floral and fruity notes.
Ottorosa: A fresh, delicate rosé with wild berry and balsamic hints.
Ottorosé Metodo Classico: An elegant sparkling wine with fine bubbles and notes of caramel.

Ottavianello now symbolizes Carvinea’s philosophy: rooted in tradition, but always evolving. From a grape nearly lost to history, it now defines who and what Carvinea is: a winery committed to showcasing the best of Puglia, in its own distinct way.

A few more Carvinea bottles to look out for:

Lucerna: Mineral-driven white made with fiano, with citrus and floral notes.
Negroamaro: Dark, earthy, and balanced. A classic with depth.
Merula Rosa: A rosé made with Aglianico and Negroamaro. Fresh, dry, and vibrant.
Primitivo: Full-bodied red, layered, and expressive.

From Our Family to Yours: Masseria Pezze d’Arena

Image left: Elena Di Maria, Beppe Di Maria, Sofia Mammoliti at Masseria Pezze d'Arena.

Image right: Masseria Pezze d'Arena, Puglia.

On a more personal note, Masseria Pezze d’Arena has always been where my entire family spends our summers. It's not about work, it's about slowing down, sharing good food and wine, and spending time together as a family. Over the years, it’s become the one place we all return to, no matter how busy life gets.

Today, we’ve opened the doors to share that experience. The masseria is now available for weekly villa rentals, private tastings, and intimate events. Whether you're travelling with friends, family, or celebrating something special, it's a place to connect with each other, with nature, and with the slower rhythms of Southern Italy.

Exploring Puglia

Puglia has so much to offer, from quiet inland countryside to beautiful coastal stretches. Exploring it means finding a mix of history, local traditions, and simple, everyday beauty.

What makes it easy is how close everything is. We typically stay in one area and drive to different spots, whether it’s for a beach, a restaurant, or just a change of scenery. Each place offers something different, but all share that same relaxed, familiar feeling that keeps us coming back.

Towns to Visit

Though there are dozens of different towns worth visiting in Puglia, here are just a few of my favourites:

Image: Otranto Port, Puglia.

Ostuni: Whitewashed hill town with amazing views and architecture, great restaurants and bars to go for an aperitivo.
Cisternino: Small but lively, known for its butchers and grilled meat.
Otranto: The easternmost point of Italy, known for its turquoise waters, historic castle, and the stunning 12th-century mosaic floor in its cathedral.
Santa Maria di Leuca: Southern tip of Puglia, where the Ionian sea meets the Adriatic. Beautiful beaches in the area, great place to base yourself and explore other coastal towns from.
Monopoli: A small coastal town with a working port & narrow stone streets. A quick drive away from the famous Polignano a Mare.

Where to Eat: Some Favourites

One of the best (if not the best) parts of visiting Puglia is the food. From traditional trattorias to local seaside spots, the meals here are simple, always made with local seasonal ingredients, and full of flavour.

Image: Albachiara, Savelletri, Puglia.

A few of my go to spots are:

Il Solito Posto (Ostuni): Best pizza in town (in my humble opinion!) So many options, the crust is amazing, and they have several super inventive flavour combinations. If you don’t feel like pizza, don’t worry, they also have delicious pastas and secondi to choose from.
Osteria del Tempo Perso (Ostuni): Higher-end, classic Puglian dishes set in the most room, which was actually carved from the ancient rock of the historic center of Ostuni. You feel the culture & history while dining here.
Trattoria Bere Vecchie (Cisternino): Great meat and local plates. Go up to the butcher counter, choose what you want, they’ll cook it and bring it to your table.
Masseria Moroseta (Ostuni): Beautiful setting, curated menu by the restaurant's chef, inspired by seasonal ingredients and flavours. The menu is inventive, and you’ll never see the same dish twice.
Alba Chiara (Savelletri): The best of the best! No frills, plastic tables right on the water. Seafood that was caught earlier that morning. Enjoy local delicacies such as ricci (sea urchins), raw shellfish, grilled octopus, seafood pastas and more.
Trattoria delle Ruote (Martina Franca): My favourite. Just three menu options. Aperitivo plate, orecchiette al sugo con polpette, braciole. Simple, delicious, authentic.

Final Note

Puglia isn’t about being trendy or overproduced. It’s beautiful but never in a try-hard way. From the whitewashed towns and rugged coastline to the rows of ancient olive trees, the beauty here feels natural and lived-in.

What makes it special isn’t just how it looks, but how it feels. Long lunches, slow drives through the countryside, time with family, food that tastes like where it comes from. Whether you're sipping wine in a quiet courtyard or diving into the sea before lunch, there’s a rhythm to life here that reminds you to slow down and enjoy what matters.